Namaste again
I've relocated to the West Coast of India - to Kerala, Land of the Coconut, lauded as 'God's Own Country' and the place where my Indian odyssey began 10 years ago.
I've come to the touristy beach resort of Kovalam to participate in the local Kali temple festival. This is my favourite thing to do in India - I have known the temple and the people for such a long time; I have seen children become adolescent and teenagers attain maturity. Some of my dearest old friends have left their bodies....
The little temple has grown and expanded: this year it has had new wooden doors on the shrines (well on two of them - the main Kali shrine and that of Ganesh, the 'elephant' god of new beginnings) and next year these will be faced with silver. I (at very little expense I should say) am going to sponsor the dozens of little bells that will hang on the doors. This is my 'family' temple and I love it dearly.
The festival will last for a week this year: it started on Sunday and as soon as I finish this post I will head back to my room to don my sari in order to participate in the afternoon's activities. What happens is that the stone deity - Balabhadrakali, the little girl black Kali - stays permanently in her shrine but her processional deity which takes the form of a big semicircular 'headpiece' (about a metre in diameter) is taken out daily to bless homes, hotels and restaurants, accompanied by her entourage of red clad attendants and two groups of drummers and her 'shaman'. I can think of no other word for this gentleman - on two occasions during the festival - at the beginning and the evening before the end - he dances with the 'headpiece' Kali on his head and becomes the goddess. You only have to see the physical change in him to know that he isn't faking it. At the end of an increasingly frenzied dance he collapses in trance. It's tremendously exciting. At all other times he's a sweet and rather shy young man. (He keeps asking me to take photos of him while dancing but I am always too spellbound to remember to use my camera! However, if I do get it together, I'll post some after I get back to UK.)
One of my favourite things to do during the festival is to sit with the women and pull petals off kilos of flowers that are used for the rituals. Such colour and fragrance! Such caterpillars! Last night two girls from Belorus joined us and I was given the job - by a somewhat embarassed temple astrologer and the president - of checking that they were not menstruating. Had this been the case, all the flowers would have been thrown away! The president's wife is German, and a good friend of mine, and she is always very indignant about this 'discrimination', as I used to be, until I learned that a man bleeding from a wound would also not be allowed to touch ritual items as the blood attracts 'lower elementals and bad energies'.
Anyway, this afternoon the group is coming to the beach to bless some of the restaurants so you can imagine what the charter tourists make of it all. (I can imagine some of them watching me in my sari and indeed thinking 'who does she think she is' as Venetian quipped on the Celeb BB thread!!!LOL) I have actually bumped into one couple whom I met here two years ago and again at the river Thames during the Durga Puja about which I wrote on the Hinduism forum. Small world.
Anyway I must go....did I spot somewhere that it's snowing in England??? Here it's cool at night and early morning (I was up at 4.15am) but swimming weather during the day!!!
Much love
Sunanda xxxx
PS Prashna - I didn't notice or hear of anyone in Tamil Nadu celebrating Saraswati Puja. I know they do so during Navratri, but didn't know it had just taken place.
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Hi Sunanda,
Sounds like you're having a wonderful time.
There has been some snow in some parts of the UK, although here in the midlands it's just frosty this morning.
Have fun.
Love and Reiki Hugs
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
hi sunanda,
what a lovely post... i almost felt "there"... although certainly not as warm... i was opening my curtains and saw a flurry of snow, albeit lasting about 5 minutes, but i thought brrrrr... i'm staying put!
oooops, gotta go... heres the plumber! 😀
x
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
You write terrific posts on India, Sunanda. But then we expect no less from a tour guide! 🙂
I just travelled from Coventry to Somerset. No snow in either place, don't worry, but frost at night and cold, yes. But maybe only as January "should" be.
Question on Kovalam. And sorry to hit a 'grey' note. [:-]Do many people go swimming there? I mean more than just a few yards in? I've read "at least" a couple of tourists drown there per year from powerful undertows, so wonder if it's fit really only - "only"! LOL - for the beach, or whether lots of people do swim?
Ta,
V xxxx
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Oh, I'm so pleased to miss the snow! Snow and I do not agree - I have Raynaud's disease and always get chilblains in cold weather!
Anyway, nice to hear from you all.
David - lots of people swim here in Kovalam but the waves are quite big and fierce. However there are permanent and very very good lifeguards on duty all day. I once watched them rescue a woman who had been foolish enough to go swimming when the red flags were up and I was tremendously impressed by their professionalism. Having said that, one has to take care. BTW, in answer to your pm, Varkala, which is further to the north is rapidly becoming as commercialised as Kovalam but is perhaps not yet as 'developed' ie clean! Personally I find Kovalam more comfy but it certainly is full of charter tourists who are obviously not very aware that they are in India!
Which brings me to the reason for this post: last night, as I mentioned above, the 'entourage' from the Kali temple came to the beach and performed several pujas to bless some of the restaurants. I was absolutely fascinated to watch the reactions of the tourists: each puja was preceded by very loud drumming and some pretty jazzy sort of long trumpets (I should know the correct name for these, but it has gone - a neighbour here in the internet cafe has said that the Hindi name is bansuri, but that doesn't ring a bell; currently the boy who takes the money here is canvassing the waiters in the restaurant outside to see if anyone knows aand now we've all remembered at the same time that it's a shenai! But maybe Prashna will correct me on the spelling!) and many of the tourists spent their time taking photos of the musicians, convinced that it was some kind of performance, completely unaware that behind them, in a temporary shrine made of woven coconut palm leaves, the powerful goddess Kali was having puja performed by a n extremely focused and amazing priest!
Then, too, it was interesting to note the other reactions: for instance, for every tourist who stayed to watch (and take millions of photos without ever once asking if it was OK) there were others who walked hurriedly past, averting their eyes as though some kind of pagan satanic ritual was taking place and they would be polluted if they looked. Others again, amazingly, walked by without even noticing that anything unusual was going on! The reactions to being asked for donations by lads with a collecting box were interesting also. Many people were hugely suspicious, which confirmed my belief that they come to India convinced that everyone they meet is out to rip them off. And yet, if they looked, they would see that every Indian around deposited at least one rupee - and at R86 to the pound, that would hardly break the bank! The norm is that those who make a donation, however small, are offered a plate containing vibhuti - holy ash - a pinch of which they can place on their foreheads. Obviously most foreigners hadn't got a clue what this powder was; for all I know, they might have thought they were being offered a plateful of cocaine! But then I had the inspiration to get the little boy with the ash to say 'blessing' and to apply the powder to the tourists' foreheads himself. This had the happy effect of not only charming the donors but also gave us a clear idea of who had already given, so they didn't have the box shaken under their noses more than once! At one stage though, I was holding the collecting tin and got so upset by the reaction of two obviously well off foreign women (possibly Scandinavians) who firstly looked completely down their noses at me and then proceeded to look into the distance above my heads, while completely ignoring me....that I had to give the tin to someone else before I shouted at them. A polite 'no thank you' would have cost them nothing. Anyway, I remembered that I loved them and offered them blessings in my head, and was very cheered to learn that the total amount of money collected turned out to be a record R2000 and everyone was well chuffed.
Well, forgive me, but I have
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Sunanda
What an amazing post - you really had me visualising I was there. You should write a book about your travels as you are very talented and descriptive with your posts.
Laura
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
I agree. You've a book in you here, Sunanda. I recently finished "Indian Summer" by the guy who spent a winter (in fact) teaching in the Pune slums, to orphans. One of the most moving books I read in a long time. (One side-story was that he met an actress and got roped in as an extra for a Bollywood movie. Next thing he knows, one of the most famed Indian directors "bought" him away from his school for a month as he "didn't know anyone else" to STAR as the Western man who marries a famous Indian actress in the Bollywood movie "An Ideal Wedding". So Will became a real Bollywood star for a month, lived in total luxury, and then returned to teach in the stinking slums of Pune. (I so recommend this book, which has a heart-warming conclusion - wonderful!)
Anyhow, I had a raptus there. Point is, there's a book in you too, Sunanda.
On medicines and trusting, I think I'd just trust to Indian "good luck" :D. Did you see the link I gave on your other thread? -
[link= http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomm/95267255/in/set-72057594055045409/ ]http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomm/95267255/in/set-72057594055045409/[/link]
V
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
ORIGINAL: sunanda
Namaste again
I've relocated to the West Coast of India - to Kerala, Land of the Coconut, lauded as 'God's Own Country' and the place where my Indian odyssey began 10 years ago.
I've come to the touristy beach resort of Kovalam to participate in the local Kali temple festival. This is my favourite thing to do in India -
PS Prashna - I didn't notice or hear of anyone in Tamil Nadu celebrating Saraswati Puja. I know they do so during Navratri, but didn't know it had just taken place.
Hi Sunanda and all,
I am so glad you are having a good time, and very grateful that you took the trouble to initiate the variation on the pranAmi collection.
Where you are is very clear to me, but it might help if I link some maps. So here they are:
The major attractions and pictures of beaches in:
[link= http://www.kovalam.com/html/info.htm ]http://www.kovalam.com/html/info.htm[/link] A typical beach would be like this:
From [link= http://www.kovalam.com/html/gallery.htm ]http://www.kovalam.com/html/gallery.htm[/link]
I would personally go to Varkala beach for obvious reasons:
For more info on Kerala's beaches you could try:
[link= http://indiakerala.us/beach-tours-to-kerala/tours-to-kovalam-beach.html ]http://indiakerala.us/beach-tours-to-kerala/tours-to-kovalam-beach.html[/link]
I am sorry, Sunanda, I could not find your favourite Kali temple readily. But I must confess that I have not tried really hard. That's because I do not even have to try to visualise a kali temple or Ma Kali. Sorry about that, folks.
I do not wish to make this response too long. So I shall cover the Shehnai in the next.
Take care. With much love,
Prashna.
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
ORIGINAL: sunanda
1. Oh, I'm so pleased to miss the snow! Snow and I do not agree - I have Raynaud's disease and always get chilblains in cold weather!
2. each puja was preceded by very loud drumming and some pretty jazzy sort of long trumpets - a neighbour here in the internet cafe has said that the Hindi name is bansuri,
3. we've all remembered at the same time that it's a shenai! But maybe Prashna will correct me on the spelling!
4. convinced that it was some kind of performance,
5 plate containing vibhuti - holy ash - a pinch of which they can place on their foreheads.
But then I had the inspiration to get the little boy with the ash to say 'blessing' and to apply the powder to the tourists' foreheads himself. This had the happy effect of not only charming the donors but also gave us a clear idea of who had already given,
Hi Sunanda and all,
Sorry to trouble you so soon.
1. Heat and I do not agree! That's why I have never been to Dakshinatya, (South India).
Two summers ago, my wife and I escaped to Australia and New Zealand. Sydney had a
sudden freezing cold spell, which I much enjoyed. The previous summer, we escaped to
Norway, where I could spend some time near the largest glacier in Europe. Must have been a
Penguin in the previous life. Anyway, enough of me.
2. Bansuri it isn't. That is the bamboo flute, which is extremely significant in Sanatana
Dharma. The greatest living exponent is Pandit Hari prasad Chaurasia. This might be of
interest: [link= http://www.hariprasadchaurasia.com/bansuri.htm ]http://www.hariprasadchaurasia.com/bansuri.htm[/link]
3. Prashna will. That is, express his extreme envy at your good fortune of being able to spend
so long in "God's own country". The correct spelling and pronunciation are "shehnai" and "sheh-nAi"
respectively. The "e" is as the first e in "never". The "A" as in "faster"(Oxford English
pronunciation, not the American version).
The instrument looks like this:
From [link= http://chandrakantha.com/articles/indian_music/shehnai.html ]http://chandrakantha.com/articles/indian_music/shehnai.html[/link]
It is a double-reeded wind instrument, similar to the oboe. It was traditionally played at Weddings.
The greatest exponent to my knowledge was Ustad Bismillah Khan, BharatRatna who passed away on
21 August, 2006 aged 91. The Government of India declared one day of national mourning on his death.
His body was buried at Fatemain burial ground of old Varanasi under a neem tree with 21-gun salute from Indian Army.
Some details here : [link= http://www.hindustantimes.com/news/specials/emotion2006/Index/sorrow_legendsbid.shtml ]http://www.hindustantimes.com/news/specials/emotion2006/Index/sorrow_legendsbid.shtml[/link]
You can listen to what the Shehnai and the Bansuri sound like here: [link= http://www.goes.com/~mgreen/ ]http://www.goes.com/~mgreen/[/link]
Listen to the DarbAri KAnArA and mAlkauns near the bottom.
CAUTION: PLEASE HAVE YOUR FIREWALL,ANTI-VIRUS and POP-UP BLOCKER turned ON just to play safe.
4. It was - a performance to honour Ma Kali.
5. Bibhuti signifies renunciation. Hence its application for Sadhus, hermits and of course, Shiva.
Superb inspiration, bless you, Sunanda and of course, thank you.
Svasti te stu.
Prashna.
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Thank you so much Prashna for your erudition. The instruments do look exactly like your photo but I checked this morning with one of the musicians and he said it's not a shehnai but a nadasuram. (The spelling is my own - that's what it sounded like anyway.) I can't listen to your soundlink here but the music is extremely wail- y and somewhat discordant to western ears. (I love it but some of the tourists were looking a little pained!) There are about ten musicians in all - two sets: one lot have two of these nadasurams and three sets of horizontal drums, two sets of which consist of two drums each. The others have three vertical drums - chenda. (Now I know that should be spelled cenda with a little dot under the 'c' but chenda is what it sounds like.) They have a young boy (sometimes two) with cymbals about six inches in diameter and then something rather like a big bass drum. All of these musicians spend hours leading the processions as the processional deity and her acolytes tour the surrounding villages performing blessing ceremonies called 'nurra purra' (again the transliteration is mine - that's obviously not how it's spelled.) Last night at around midnight, deep in the middle of nowhere, another 'kalankarvan' (sp) was held, where the main shaman/priest (vullichapara - now that one I know is spelled vellicapada with some more little dots!) wore Kali's heavy metal anklets, her metal breastplate and danced himself into a trance with the heavy headpiece on his head. It was tremendously tense, the drums were loud and compelling, and there wasn't a tourist to be seen.
Some years back I realised that some of the older women ululate at the highspots of the ceremonies and it was with some astonishment that I found myself doing the same at one of the pujas on the beach. Afterwards I was hugely embarassed and thought everyone would laugh at me but in fact I was rewarded with a coconut from the temporary shrine - a signal honour! It seems now that many of the younger more middle class women are too inhibited to make this noise (imagine putting your hand over your mouth and making the noise we used to make as children when we were playing at being Red Indians!) but now they know that I can do it, they will often ask me to do so as Kali finds it pleasing! It's a very liberating thing to do!!!
Also last night one of the little boy cymbal players became sick; he'd been drinking lemon water at some of the stops and tea at the others, plus he'd been going for about twelve hours on foot. It turned out that he was only 11 and he didn't want to admit he couldn't go on because he was worried that his colleagues would cut his salary!!! Together with the Temple Secretary, I played 'Mother' (I'm the only female who goes around with them by the way) and insisted on him being taken to a nearby house where he could sleep and recover. Otherwise the stamina of these people - especially the drummers - is amazing. I've discovered that my camera takes video as well so I've taken a few minutes and will try to upload it to Quicktime when I get back.
Yesterday morning I grabbed a couple of hours and sped into the city (Trivandrum) where I treated myself to my first ever silk chiffon sari. Rather an extravagant purchase at 20 pounds sterling; but it's to wear on the last day when I will have apuja done for me and my son in the temple before the festival finishes.
Mind you, I've spent nothing on food since I arrive as the temple has an outdoor canteen which cooks a big lunch (rice, sambar - vegetable stew - another vegetable 'curry' and mango pickle) which is given free to anyone who wants it. It may not be totally hygienic but I've never had a problem so far, and it is absolutely delicious. Kali takes care of her children like the Divine Mother she is!!!!
Rushing off now for the evening's programme! (Oh just to add that last night's special puja had to be cancelled as an unattended toddler walked across the coloured powder 'mandala' which it had taken the priest three hours to make!)
Much love and thanks for your intere
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
ORIGINAL: sunanda
1. The instruments do look exactly like your photo but I checked this morning with one of the musicians and he said it's not a shehnai but a nadasuram. (The spelling is my own - that's what it sounded like anyway.)
2. the music is extremely wail- y and somewhat discordant to western ears.
3. (I love it but some of the tourists were looking a little pained!) There are about ten musicians in all - two sets: one lot have two of these nadasurams and three sets of horizontal drums, two sets of which consist of two drums each.
4. The others have three vertical drums - chenda. (Now I know that should be spelled cenda with a little dot under the 'c' but chenda is what it sounds like.)
5. some of the older women ululate at the highspots of the ceremonies and it was with some astonishment that I found myself doing the same at one of the pujas on the beach.
6. It may not be totally hygienic but I've never had a problem so far, and it is absolutely delicious. Kali takes care of her children like the Divine Mother she is!!!!
Hi Sunanda and all,
Just a little bit of info, if you do not mind.
1. The Shehnai is the most developed form of the Double reeded wind instrument. It's supposed to have quadruple reeds. I do not know as I have never handled it myself. It is mainly used in North Indian classical Music. The south Indian Classical Music called Karnataki Music uses a simpler form of the instrument. Only a simple double reed, not so advanced. It's name is Nadaswaram etc. Some details here:
[link= http://www.chandrakantha.com/articles/indian_music/nadaswaram.html ]http://www.chandrakantha.com/articles/indian_music/nadaswaram.html[/link]
and here:
[link= http://www.jas-musicals.com/sectrad/45/ShahnaiNathaswaramConchMoorsung.asp ]http://www.jas-musicals.com/sectrad/45/ShahnaiNathaswaramConchMoorsung.asp[/link]
This is what it looks like :
Some info on the Chenda here:
[link= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chenda ]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chenda[/link]
3. I imagine that this is the kind of group playing that you saw:
4. Here is a picture of chenda:
This page should havemost if not all the drums used in South India. This should help you identify them, Sunanda:
[link= http://www.jas-musicals.com/sectrad/South-Indian-Instruments.asp ]http://www.jas-musicals.com/sectrad/South-Indian-Instruments.asp[/link]
5. I AM impressed. I am very familiar with the sound of the ulu although I am not very fond of it myself. Nor can I do it. But very well done; most impressive.
6. Traditional South Indian cooking should have a lot of tamarind; extremely acid and quite effective in killing bacteria. You would be alright.
Just be careful with water. I drink a lot of the water from inside the GReen Coconut. That should be plentiful in Kerala. Make the most of it. Absolutely safe and heavenly in taste.
Once again, all the best.
Prashna
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
ORIGINAL: sunanda
Yesterday morning I grabbed a couple of hours and sped into the city (Trivandrum) where I treated myself to my first ever silk chiffon sari. Rather an extravagant purchase at 20 pounds sterling; but it's to wear on the last day when I will have apuja done for me and my son in the temple before the festival finishes.
Hi Sunanda,
I hope you won't mind a suggestion re: Sari purchase. £20 is not really extravagant as Silk sarees go. When I was getting Silk Sari's for my dear wife in Kolkata in 1999, I paid between £40 and £60. Of course, shops in cities are usually more expensive. It's worth getting a good one as it would last you the rest of your life and they are far more expensive and difficult to get in UK.
You could consider the Kanchipuram Silks . You would get some info on it here:
[link= http://www.sarisafari.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=S&Category_Code=ks ]http://www.sarisafari.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=S&Category_Code=ks[/link]
They look like this:
I am afraid this one might set you back about £60 even in India.
The other famous silk sari from South India is Bangalore Silk (quite expensive). Murshidabad silk with batik prints are much less so. Some examples here:
[link= http://sarisafari.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=S&Category_Code=murshi ]http://sarisafari.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=S&Category_Code=murshi[/link]
Alternatively you could try the Narayanpet Sari's also in handwoven silk, Some details here:
[link= http://www.exoticindiaart.com/product/YQ86/ ]http://www.exoticindiaart.com/product/YQ86/[/link]
It looks like this:
All the best. If I have caused offence to you or anyone else with my suggestions, I hope you will forgive me.
Prashna.
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
S,
I love your post here as I am sure anyone does. The fact is that you span the psychology or whatever (!) between East and West. What I mean is, that you know so much that people in the West need to know, but Indians would take for granted. So to me, you are exceptional. 🙂
I have to be honest. I would TRY to partake of these rituals ... ouch ... but I think there is superstition involved? I would find it very hard - actually I could not - be really involved 100 % . But I love the fact that you can, it is amazing.
So forgive me for that, LOL, I am maybe a jnani yogi (and that is also a joke).
But I can't get my head around how to fully partake in rites or rituals that seem to have no overall or informed wisdom to them? I am so sorry! I simply love your knowledge. But to me it is is a kind of supertition. Ouch! I said it!
Mind you, I am experienced in taking part in such things and giving them my own meaning, so maybe this is what you do?
V xxxxxx
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Sunanda, Is it easy for vegans in India to find food?. I should think it is somehow.
I'd love a sari, they are so beautiful. A friend has one and she wears it at parties.
The country scenery looks divine. I would love to go there and see the wildlife. Oh well I can dream!
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Hi all
Prashna, you said:
I imagine that this is the kind of group playing that you saw:
And indeed it is but this is what I call 'massed cenda', whereas 'my' group is very small. I have seen 'formation' drumming performed by one group at the festival of Sri Mookambika in Kollur and it is wonderful. Most impressive.
Thank you so much for the links and info about the musical instruments; when I write my book:Dit will come in very handy!
Actually I do know about the more expensive silk saris and have been to Kanchipuram. Also Benares silk is very well known but it is far too heavy for me here (not to mention too costly). What I love about the silk chiffon is that it's so light in weight - but to be honest, I'm very happy with my usual light 100% cotton saris.
David, why 'try' to take part in rituals if they're not your cup of tea? What point? I don't even have to think about whether I 'believe' in them or whether it's superstition - for me it's a visceral thing; I don't have a choice, I just do it - and LOVE it. But then I'm a bhakta, you're a jnani - two paths leading up the same mountain.
Jackie, vegetarian food is the norm here. People consume some milk - in tea mainly - and cook with yogurt. Actually the Hindus here are happy (some but not all of them) to eat fish and chicken but can't always afford it. During the festival they're supposed to eat pure vegetarian and imbibe no alcohol! After the last puja - which will be after midnight tomorrow and not open to the public - they're always quite keen to get rid of me, which used to upset me until I realised that all the men except the priests go off and have a good feast with fish and whisky. Although I'm accorded honorary male status for the duration of the festival, I don't expect them to invited me along for this - and I wouldn't want to go even if they did as they're all quite full of themselves by then and probably tell dirty jokes etc. The sacred turns into the profane!
You know, one thing that I have been thinking about is how all the work at the temple gets done pretty organically - local people turn up and pitch in as needed, without being asked to do so. I've mentioned the women de-petalling flowers, well, the men do their fair share too. This morning a couple of them were washing the outer walls of the shrines and two twenty-year olds (one of which belongs to the little guesthouse where I stay) offered to put up new decorations (these are made from some kind of leaf which is sort of twisted into a bird shape - I keep meaning to investigate further to find out how they do it) across the whole 'auditorium'. It's so lovely to see the youngsters - always boys - working together and having fun, rather than being sullen and uncommunicative like a lot of our teenagers. They seem to develop much later than ours do, so a 20 year old is still a kid and those who come to the temple are really sweet. I remember a few years back when about ten of them had the afternoon off towards the end of the festival and were frolicking in the sea. I offered to buy them a Pepsi each and this to them was the highspot of the day; they couldn't usually afford to drink Pepsi!
There's a lovely feeling amongst the women and girls too: a few years back they mostly spent the puja times chatting and gossiping but now I notice they come to sit and focus in silence and it's very powerful.
This morning's main puja was a kumkum abhishekham, when the main Goddess was bathed in red powder. I nearly caught the end of my sari in an oil lamp and went up in flames - but she saved me!!:D
Much love
Sunanda xxx
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Thanks Sunanda,
This blog has been a wonderful read for me, thanks for putting in the effort, and your enthusiasm shines through too 😀
PS. you'll find your phone will probably record sound too... so we expect -nay demand :)-that you also upload a sample of yourululation (is that a word?)... I can't wait to hear it 😉
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
But then I'm a bhakta, you're a jnani - two paths leading up the same mountain.
Yes, and I respect that Path, as you know. ;)In fact I would resist being put into any category, for I love bhakti too - but, ouch, I have to know the "why" and the "how it works". If I had time,I really should write a review of the book, "Indian Summer", since a little orphan boy - just one of the many people in the book - was a genius with no training, and could design on paper and then in reality any engine a person would want. It was such a moving story. (Oh, my point there is that he too had to know how anything works: he would take anything apart, and then put it back together - improved. Or design his own better model. This at around the age of 10, from an Indian orphan. So I hope he is doing OK today. So I suppose he'd never be a bhakti!)
For myself, I really have no interest per se in going anywhere. It is all internal. But "moving" and placing oneself in different circumstances has always proved for me to have a huge impact. Hence, India, when the embassy sort their visa system out at last. But I am not so interested in the outer; it is a place for me to explore (again) the inner. So what will I do? End up in a room and not move anywhere? LOL - a half-joke BTW.
Gurdjieff is not my chosen path, but he got such a lot right. It is very easy for us all to become "robotic" in our lives, so thatour lives and actionsbecome, in fact, virtually meaningless. And one tried-and-tested way of escaping the "robot machine" within ourselves is simply to get away to a totally different environment. I've no doubt, for example that this is even half the reason for people taking conventional holidays.
V xxxx
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
ORIGINAL: sunanda
Hi all
1. Jackie, vegetarian food is the norm here. People consume some milk - in tea mainly - and cook with yogurt. Actually the Hindus here are happy (some but not all of them) to eat fish and chicken but can't always afford it.
2. I nearly caught the end of my sari in an oil lamp and went up in flames - but she saved me!!:D
Much love
Sunanda xxx
Hi Sunanda,
Thank you for your detailed posts, which I like so many others on this MB find most enjoyable. For me it brings to life, the customs and way of life of a part of India that I have never seen, nor am likely to.
Today being26 January,the 57th anniversary of the Republic Day in India, I would like to ask you how the day was observed/celebrated in the part that you are in. Did you notice or see anything to mark the day? How aware are the ordinary folks there of the significance of that day?
1. About vegetarian diet, I was under the impression that vegetarianism is very much the norm in the whole of Dakshinatya. In fact, a good Paper Dosa with Idli and sambar washed down with a kingsize glass of Lassi is my main reason for visiting a South Indian Restaurant!
Of course, fish will be plentiful in the coastal regions, but more inland, I thought that themost commonmeal would be a vegetarian one.Is that not so in your experience?
2. I can relate to that. I have often felt the same myself; although of course without a sari on my person! LOL. 😀
Keep posting your delightful story. All the best. [sm=grouphug.gif]
Prashna.
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Hello again
Prashna asked:
Of course, fish will be plentiful in the coastal regions, but more inland, I thought that the most common meal would be a vegetarian one. Is that not so in your experience?
And yes, vegetarianism is the norm but for special occasions my Hindu friends love to eat fish and chicken and even 'mutton'. Mind you these are not high caste people. The Brahmins won't even eat eggs - but I have to admit that there are rumours that some of the Big Temple Brahmins in Tiruvannamalai (TN) have been seen slinking out of some of the Muslim meat and alcohol dives late at night. And I know for sure of one occasion on the coach coming back from a betrothal ceremony when there was a fight between some of the Brahmins who had partaken of a little liquid refreshment! (I was shocked!)
Roger - no, I'm so sorry, my camera doesn't have sound! That's what I get for buying the 4600 rather than the 5600!!!
Anyway, just to bring you up to date: the festival ended on Saturday night (or rather 1am on Sunday morning) and it has taken me until now (Tuesday) to be able to write about it. the last two days were just wonderful. On Friday there was the children's procession and another 'kavalkavan' - shaman dance, of which I have a couple of photos. (I really don't like taking photos because the camera becomes such a barrier between what's going on and me.) Then on Saturday there were some big pujas, including the one that I had paid for, which I found very powerful. Immediately following that, the 'tiramuddi' (Headpiece Kali) was taken in procession to the beach to be given a bath. I had to laugh because the tourists lined up like paparazzi to take photos of a movie star! Back at the temple the 'travelling Kali' was reinstalled at the back of the main shrine and a flower abhishekam was performed - where the stone 'idol' was bathed in flower petals until just her little face peeped out. And finally, after midnight, came the last puja - a 'gurusi' with the shaman again embodying the Goddess and blessing those involved in the festival. This was more or less a private function, just for the temple people (and me! - how lucky am I?) and at the end, in his feminine guise, the shaman voluptuously wrapped himself around the temple president and secretary and told them how happy She was! (Much to their discomfiture - these are not tactile people!) I was given a pat on the head and a handful of vibhuti - sacred ash! I would have loved a hug but there was still a residue of 'don't touch she's a woman' remaining in the priest.
It was very moving and I was very sad that it had all finished.
Alarmingly, the following morning all the temple priests were in a car, en route for another temple (our resident priests, not the shaman and his acolytes) when they crashed into a 'post'. No one was hurt (except for the car) and the astrologer has told them just why it happened and what to do to prevent it happening again.
The temple is now closed for a week and I am off tonight into the hills of Karnataka, to visit another favourite Goddess of mine, Sri Mookambika of whom I may have written last year on the Hinduism forum. I had been planning to stay there for six days but am now toying with the idea of coming back down here to be present for the reopening of the temple. (Am waiting for divine guidance on that question!)
Anyway, I shall be out of internet access for a few days so I shall love you and leave you....but only for now.
Jai Ma!
(Victory to the Mother!)
Sunanda xxxx
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Just a quick note to say I know what you mean about photos, Sunanda, yes. No problem in Europe or at places like the Taj, but I've been thinking too that I'm not keen on taking many at all in places like India. What are you "saying" in that action? Maybe that the people in the photo are so different to you (if they are)?
V
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Hi David
With regard to taking photos, my point is that the camera itself becomes a physical barrier between what's taking place and your own eyes. You then experience whatever's going on at one remove, as it were. Instead of remaining immersed in the scene, you (I) have to bring the intellect into play (framing the shot, clicking the shutter etc) and the surrender to the moment disappears. However, I'm really only talking about religious happenings here. I have no problem taking photos of people. In fact, when I had my 'old' camera I would always have the films printed immediately (it's so cheap here) and make two copies of everything so that I could give one to the people I'd photographed. either that or I was scrupulous about taking their address and mailing them one from home. For many people it was the first photo of themselves they ever had and they just love it. So it was something very tangible that I could do for them - and neither I nor they saw it as patronising.
Now I have a digital camera that's not so easy - and it's difficult to explain that I can't supply 'paper' prints. (Well I could but it would be more expensive I think.) However, I love to have all these photos on my computer, to be able to play around with them and to relive the moments they refer to. Also, because I come to the same places time after time, I can appreciate how people are changing and growing older, especially the children.
I think it's important though not to take too many photos - it sucks the energy out of the situation. Isn't it true that in many societies people won't have their photos taken as they believe the camera will steal their soul?
In the little temple here in Kovalam, I am amazed at the number of tourists who just click away without ever asking if it's OK to take photos. After all, photography is not allowed in Westminster Abbey or St Pauls Cathedral. In fact, the local people don't mind as long as they don't take photos directly of the inside of the shrines - where God lives. This is always very hard for me as the 'Little Kali' in the main shrine is decorated with sandalwood paste and then painted - given eyes and red lips - and adorned with jewels that her devotees have given. She is dressed in the most beautiful saris. (The young priest who does this has enormous artistic talent and she ends up looking like a real girl. She used to look like a six year old but she's growing older now and has reached late teens!) Also at the end of each festival puja she is bathed in a sea of flower petals until just her little face peeps out - and I swear there's always a twinkle in her eye at this point. Well, I just long to be able to take a photo to remember her by - and last year I finally plucked up courage to ask permission - when no one was around except the priest. He said OK and I took one shot - which in my nervousness was totally off centre. I don't feel so bad though because they had her photo taken by a studio photographer to put on the front of the festival programme so it can't be a total no no. And she is very beautiful!
Much love
sunanda xxx
(Now back from my lightning trip to my beloved Goddess Mookambika and enjoying a couple more days of beach and swimming pools before heading off again.)
Incidentally my journey to Mookambika took 18 hours each way - 15 by train and then a 3 hour taxi ride. In other days I would have gone 2nd class sleeper on the train to save money but this time my outward journey was paid for by a friend and she booked me AC so I treated myself to AC on the return journey and took a taxi from Mangalore to Kollur instead of the customary 4 hour bus ride. My Indian friends were horrified that I would 'waste' so much money on the taxi - they simply couldn't get the concept of 'treating oneself'. In their view, to spend money on comfort is a waste (to buy gold would be completely different!) and I would have been far better advised to suffer on the bus and save my rupees. They scornfully accused me of now being a 'rich lady' and just couldn't get my point that
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Hi Sunanda,
I know everyone here enjoys these posts of yours, as you are not a quick visitor to India, yet also have the Western perspective. AND, in case anyone doesn't know it, you're a tour guide. So this all adds to the colour of your descriptions.
My delays and delays are ending. So far as Kerala is concerned, I will probably be there in March. But I have an "appointment" :Dto go to a cafe in Pune (Poona) in nine days from now, where on a notice board there'll be a message pinned from my friends to tell me where in Pune they are by then. All very sixties and 'Magic Bus'. Love it! :DSo I have 9 days to ensure I get to Pune.
Incidentally, Pune is the location of the book I mentioned, "Indian Summer". I'd try to track down the little school for orphans the book is all about, but I forget the name of the slum, and the book is now out of the library. [&:]
The friends I'm meeting want to spend five days once we meet up in a "Health Ashram" near Pune apparently partly set up by Gandhi. So I'll be along with them. Apparently you get half the therapies mentioned on Hp all day long "for free" included in the room rate. My friends are full of health so I don't know why they want to be there, but there you go ...
I hear it's wise to book a room in Bombay (Mumbai) if you are arriving there as I will. Rooms are precious as it's India's most expensive city. So I phoned from here and almost everything was full. I mention this in respect to your taxi ride of "luxury". I eventually found a place offering me a single for 350 rps (about £4?) but warned me it was like a little box. When I up-graded to a double, with a sea-view "window" (!) for 500 rps (£5.50) they seemed astonished. 😀
V xxx
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Hi Sunanda, I've been meaning to say how much I too am enjoying your posts. Although I haven't actually said so earlier, I have been avidly reading and keeping up with your adventures.
Love
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
ORIGINAL: venetian
...
So I have 9 days to ensure I get to Pune.The friends I'm meeting want to spend five days once we meet up in a "Health Ashram" near Pune apparently partly set up by Gandhi. So I'll be along with them. ...V xxx
Hi venetian,
While in Pune, I hope you find time to visit:
Sinhagad
...also known as the Lion Fort and is situated around 25 kilometers southwest of Pune on top of a steep hill. This fort is now almost in a finished condition. It was in the year 1670, that Tanaji Malusre, a general of Shivaji climbed the steep hill in dark with his men and defeated the forces of Bijapur. This is also the place where Mahatma Gandhi met another stalwart of Indian freedom struggle, Bal Gangadhar Tilak in 1915 for the first time.
Raigad
... situated at a distance of around 126 kilometers from Pune. Shivaji was crowned at Raigad in 1648 and he also died here in 1680. This fort is located on an isolated hilltop, from where you can get a breathtaking view of the Western Ghats.
Osho Commune International
Pataleshwar Cave Temple
Best wishes.
Prashna
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
I'm reading and enjoying them too!:D
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Hi Prashna,
I'm in India now (Mumbai) but as for Pune and its environs, in a week or less I'll e meeting friends, one of whom has had recent lengthy trips to India already, so he'll probably be my 'guide' for a couple of weeks, the last half of February, and I'll go wherever they do I think.
I read about the Osho place recently in the book 'Indian Summer' and the picture painted of the PEOPLE was far from flattering, though I hear the grounds are nice - but a large charge to even enter? So they/it doesn't much interest me. To wit, the author who spent much time in the Pune slums, depicted them as spoiled grown children who travel in limousines back to their air-conditioned hotels and complain (!) about poor or hungry people around who ask for money. Actually he does a superb job of copying - it seems verbatim - some of their chalk-on-the-board excrutiating 'psuedo' spiritual conversations. So after reading that book I've little interest! - but we'll see!
Near Pun there's a healthylife oriented ashram inspired by Gandhi during his life, and I'll certainly be going there next week.
Well, I left in snow and arrived in the claustrophobic, crowded, huge sprawl of Mumbai (Bombay). I can see why tourists don't stay here long. It's very noisy, crowded (over 16 million people), etc. But I'll take in a few sights and experiences while here, and then move on. I don't really intend being in another city this size or anything like it for the rest of my stay.
Actually I've only got over my flight (worst was a queue before the flight of over 2 hours to reach check-in), and had a slight stroll. So I've no travelogue in me yet ;). So over to Ms S and her postcard -----
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
Dear Sunanda,
I started reading your first post and realised that I wanted to sit back and enjoy your charming descriptions. Thank you for putting so much life and vitality in to your posts! I'm going to take some time to savour.
Hugs,
Cub
RE: Postcard from God's Own Country (Kerala)!
I promised to post a photo from the Kali festival. Here is the 'shaman/priest' wearing the headpiece which is the 'travelling' God, Kali.
And here he is (on the left) with one of his entourage:
